A spoiled bath is a quite ordinary phenomenon. Time goes by, chips, dirt, even rust streaks appear on the enamel surface. The complete replacement of such plumbing is a troublesome and expensive task. It will be much cheaper to paint the bath with your own hands, the performance features of which are worth familiarizing with. Do you agree?
We will tell you how to perform this work using epoxy enamel or liquid acrylic. In our article, we describe in detail the process of preparing plumbing and the technology of applying a new coating on its surface. Based on our tips, you can successfully update the bath yourself.
General work procedure
Restoring the bath cover is not an easy task. The whole complex of work will take several days, and possibly several weeks.
In addition to tools and materials, you need to prepare a set of workwear and protective equipment. The repair compound has an unpleasant odor and emits hazardous volatile substances during the drying process.
It is necessary to protect the respiratory organs with a high-class respirator. As an alternative, you can use any model of gas mask. For those with sensitive eyes, they also don’t put on good goggles.
During the preparation of the base, as well as when applying epoxy enamel or liquid acrylic, it is recommended to use special protective equipment, for example, a respirator
To restore the coating of the bath, it is necessary to do a number of operations:
- Free the bathroom from all the things that can be taken out.
- Cover all stationary plumbing with protective film and carefully fix the coating with tape or masking tape.
- To clean a surface of old enamel to remove pollution and to give to the basis an even roughness.
- If necessary, repair deep damage to the surface.
- Dust off the cleaned surface and degrease it.
- Apply a coat of enamel or acrylic.
- Wait for the restored surface to dry.
In the process, it is necessary to dismantle the drain and overflow piping. But the bath will have to be filled with water, so you need to connect the bath to the sewer, and then have to turn it off again several times. Do not use the bathroom during repairs so that contaminants do not accidentally get on the surface. This rule is relevant at almost all stages of repair.
Due to the pungent odor during drying of the repaired surface, it is recommended to ventilate the room intensively. This is not only about the bathroom, but also about the whole apartment or house. Therefore, family members at the time of repair is better to relocate: to the cottage, to friends, on vacation, etc.
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Repair of minor bath defects
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Chipping repair compound
Removing excess composition with sandpaper
A difficult choice: enamel or acrylic?
These materials vary in composition, preparation method, and application technology. Enamel based on epoxy resin has been known for longer: it has been used for about two decades, respectively, there are fewer pitfalls in working with this composition. Liquid acrylic is a novelty in the construction market, but it already has ardent fans.
The acrylic composition is more difficult to prepare for application, but the repair process itself is relatively simple. Firstly, the ratio of acrylic base to liquid hardener must be strictly observed. According to the consistency, these components are very different, therefore, the mixing process can be difficult.
With epoxy enamel, the opposite is true. It is not so exacting to exact proportions; the presence of special substances capable of improving the quality of the coating is allowed. But the surface treatment process requires a more careful approach.
It is worth considering that acrylic compositions are usually more expensive than epoxy enamels. Experienced craftsmen recommend that beginners in the restoration of bathtubs opt for acrylic. It is better to work with epoxy for those who already have experience in using enamels.
The subtleties of the choice of enamel for restoring the decorative and operational qualities of the bath are given in the article, the contents of which we recommend to familiarize yourself with.
In any case, when preparing the repair composition, the manufacturer's instructions should be strictly followed, since this is an important point that will definitely affect the final result of the repair work. If the repair technology is observed at every stage, then the new coating, both enamel and acrylic, will last about two decades.
The processes of applying acrylic and epoxy enamel have similar and different stages. Consider the filling of an acrylic composition as an example to understand the essence of the action.
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Step 1: Removing the bath overflow drain system
Step 2: Cleaning the enamel coating
Step 3: Preparation of the enamel mixture
Step 4: Cleaning and Degreasing
After completing the full range of preparatory work, we proceed to applying acrylic enamel on the surface of the plumbing.
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Step 5: Dividing Acrylic into Fill Portions
Step 6: Pouring Acrylic Enamel onto the Side
Step 7: Apply Even Coat
Step 8: Spread Acrylic Spatula
Step 9: Fill Liquid Acrylic Stains
Step 10: Adding Liquid Acrylic to the Sides
Step 11: bottom liquid acrylic distribution
Step 12: Technology Break
Preparation of the base for repair
Proper preparation of the bath surface for restoration is one of the most important moments of this process. Even small, inconspicuous flaws at this stage can negatively affect the final result.
In the course of preparation, it is necessary to solve the following tasks:
- remove dirt from the bath, rust streaks, etc .;
- give the surface an even fine roughness;
- to clear the basis of the appeared dust;
- completely degrease the surface.
Thermal deformation is the main reason for the violation of the integrity of the finished coating. These processes occur during drying of the coating due to the difference in the sizes of microroughness created on the surface of the substrate during pre-treatment.
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Removing contaminants from the surface of the bath is performed using active detergents. Pemolux, powdered oxalic acid, or another similar product will do. The powder is poured into the bottom of the bath and a small amount of water is added to it to obtain a pasty composition.
The top ten cleaning products for removing contaminants from the surface of the bathtub will be introduced by an article fully devoted to this issue.
Using a sponge or brush, this slurry is smeared on the surface of the bath and left for about 10-15 minutes. It is best to use a new sponge, as there may be minor grease contamination on the old sponge, which will complicate surface preparation.
After that, the cleaning composition must be washed off the walls of the bath, and fill it to the brim with hot water. Water is left for another 15-20 minutes, and then it is lowered into the sewer. While working with a cleaning agent, the bathroom should be ventilated, and the skin and respiratory tract must be protected by individual means.
The new coating will reliably fill the chips and mask areas with a changed color, but still the base should be thoroughly sanded and then cleaned and dried
This advice is especially relevant if oxalic acid or another dangerous substance is used as a cleaner. After that, you can start cleaning the surface with abrasive products. Traditionally, rust and stains remove coarse emery paper, and then finer abrasives are applied.
So cleaning the surface is faster and more efficient, but this is the wrong way when working with bath enamels. With this processing method, microroughnesses of different sizes are formed on the surface, although this difference cannot be determined visually or tactilely.
For the initial cleaning of the surface of the bath, you can use Pemolux powder or other similar composition. It is poured onto the bottom of the bath, moistened with water and then spread over the entire surface.
When applying a coating to an uneven surface created in this way, the repair composition will not fill all the recesses. During drying, these micro-voids will create excessive stress, which will subsequently cause deformation of the coating.
To sand the surface of the bath under the enamel correctly, it is recommended to arm yourself with sandpaper No. 1 and a lot of patience. The work will go much slower, but the bumps will be almost the same size. This will positively affect the drying process of the coating and significantly improve its quality.
Before starting repair work, it is necessary to clean the surface of the bathtub and treat it with fine sandpaper to give the surface a uniform roughness
All places where there are streaks of rust should be carefully sanded. Of course, ugly spots under a layer of dense enamel or acrylic will be reliably hidden. But the presence of iron oxide residues on the surface will disrupt the microrelief created during abrasive treatment.
As a result, there will appear places where the probability of coating cracking is very high. In the presence of severe impurities, the complete removal of old enamel in such places is allowed up to the exposure of the metal base.
At the end of surface cleaning, you need to perform another operation: dismantle the drain and overflow. A surface that exposes as a result also needs to be cleaned. A drill with a durex is suitable here. Processing is carried out until the pollution disappears and the surface acquires the necessary haze.
It’s easy to check the quality of processing: hold it on the surface with a fingernail, it should not slip. Particularly meticulous craftsmen inspect the surface with the help of an LED flashlight and clean out places that give shine.
For final cleaning of the bath before painting, use Sanox cleaning agent or another composition based on acidic components
Now you need to remove the dust accumulated inside the bath, and also degrease the working surface. At this stage, you will have to restore the drain piping and dismantle it again.
The following recommendation is mandatory for compliance: do not touch the work surface with your hands. Installation / dismantling of the drain is carried out using tools (tweezers, pliers, etc.), it is better to prepare them in advance.
First, the bulk of the dust from the bath is removed with a vacuum cleaner. After that, the surface is wiped with a clean cloth moistened with solvent until no dirt remains on the cloth. At the end of the entire cycle of work on the coating, the tub binding will have to be restored.
Now you need to close the drain hole and pour into the bath approximately 500-1000 ml of an active detergent based on acid, for example, Sanox. Alkaline cleaners are not acceptable at this stage. The composition is thoroughly rubbed over the surface of the bath using another new sponge. A bath rubbed with an acid cleaner is left for about an hour and a half.
In the process of preparing the surface of the bath for repair, it is treated with cleaning compounds, using a clean rag or new sponges
After that, the bath is filled with water to the edge and kept in this form for another half hour. If everything is done correctly, the bath itself will noticeably heat up. If its surface feels like it is slightly warm, it means that the amount of acid cleanser is not enough, you need to add another liter of this product to the water.
Water can only be drained after the working surface has cooled down. After that, you need to rinse with bath water two or three more times: draw water, wait an hour and a half, drain, etc. If the situation allows, fivefold washing will not hurt.
The quality of degreasing is checked as follows: wipe the surface with a rag soaked in a solvent, it must remain clean. Then a hose with a shower head is attached to the tap and the walls of the bath are watered. If water flows down a layer, but not drops, then everything is in order.
Now the surface needs to be quickly and thoroughly dried with a construction hairdryer. Quickly, because dirt can get into the dry bath from above, and this is unacceptable. At this, the preparation of the bath for coating can be considered complete.
Application of epoxy enamel
First you need to prepare the composition, i.e. mix base and hardener. In the subtle case of painting the bath with enamel, you should first of all be guided by the instructions attached to the product by the manufacturer. But there are a couple of common nuances that experienced masters consider important.
Before starting work on restoring the enamel coating of the bath, you should carefully study the instructions that are attached to the repair composition
For example, you should not immediately prepare the entire volume of epoxy enamel that is contained in the package, since over time the properties of the composition deteriorate and its “life” in the finished form is small. An inexperienced master may not have time to use the entire volume in the allotted time.
The quality of the coating will be significantly higher if you prepare and apply epoxy enamel in separate portions of approximately 250 ml each. Both the base and hardener must first be divided into separate portions in order to mix them as necessary.
During the preparation of epoxy enamel, dibutyl phthalate is recommended to be added to the finished mixture. This is a plasticizer that will improve the ductile properties of epoxy enamel. In everyday life, dibutyl phthalate is used to repel mosquitoes, as well as when working with fiberglass compounds.
The amount of additive should not exceed 5% of the total volume of epoxy enamel. Often, before mixing the composition, it is recommended to warm the base. Experts recommend using a water bath for this.
During staining, touching the surface or enamel with your hands is strictly not recommended. Therefore, you should prepare the tweezers in advance. Hair can come out of the brush with which the work is done and stay on the enamel surface. They should be removed immediately and only with tweezers.
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In order that enamel does not stain adjacent surfaces, the sides of the bowl around the perimeter, we tap the mixer and drain-overflow with masking tape
The inside of the bath is thoroughly treated with a stiff brush, if necessary with a grinding disc, in order to increase adhesion.
After surface treatment, diligently wash my bowl. After the bath has dried, we treat it with any organic solvent
After waiting for the complete disappearance of the solvent components, apply a primer to the bath to ensure tight enamel adhesion to the surface
We prepare the enamel, carefully observing the guidelines attached to the products
With uniform strokes, we apply the coloring enamel first to the walls of the bathtub along the perimeter, gradually moving to the bottom
The staining procedure is repeated after 6 hours. If the manufacturer specifies another technological break, then we follow his instructions. After drying, remove the tape
The period specified by the manufacturer for the polymerization of the applied enamel must be strictly maintained. At this time, the surface must be protected from dust and drafts
Stage 1: Pasting the edges of the tub around the perimeter
Step 2: Cleaning the surface with a stiff brush
Stage 3: Removing dust and grease from the surface
Stage 4: primer coating the surface of the bowl
Stage 5: Preparation of the coloring composition
Stage 6: applying enamel to the surface
Stage 7: Removing masking tape from the sides
Step 8: The result of staining with colored enamel
The technology of staining the bath is as follows: a lot of enamel is generously typed on the brush and applied with a continuous smear from the bottom up. Then, with the same brush, the enamel is distributed to the sides of the first smear. The following smear is done the same way: from the bottom to the top edge.
The distance between the vertical strips should be such that when distributing the enamel to the sides, individual sections overlap by about half. After the first primer coat of enamel is applied, you need to wait for it to dry, usually about 15-20 minutes.
After this, a second coat can be applied. The technology for applying it is the same: from the bottom up and grind to the sides. Experienced craftsmen also recommend observing the procedure for processing individual sections, i.e. start applying the second layer in the same place as the first, and then move in the same direction.
This will provide the desired drying speed and optimal internal coating structure. About a quarter of an hour after applying the epoxy enamel, it is necessary to check the surface for sagging and sagging. They are eliminated by a gentle movement of the brush in an upward direction.
Inflows in the area of discharge-overflow can be left until completely dry. It will be more convenient to cut them off with a knife later. It should be borne in mind that the total thickness of the coating of the bath will be slightly larger. Therefore, it may be necessary to replace old gaskets with new ones or in another fit of the harness.
Full drying of the surface usually lasts from three days to a week, after which the bath can be used in normal mode. Of course, the above information, for example, about the drying time of the coating, must be checked with the instructions prepared for a particular epoxy enamel.
Liquid Acrylic Bath Treatment
Unlike epoxy enamel, liquid acrylic is not divided into portions, but is kneaded all at once. The life of the finished substance is about one and a half hours, but this is enough to paint the entire surface of the bathtub with acrylic. It is very important to mix the components correctly, do not rush.
It is very important to properly prepare liquid acrylic for application to the surface of the bath. It is necessary to mix its components for a long time, and then let the composition brew for some time in accordance with the instructions
The plasticizer should not be added to liquid acrylic in any form. Permissible introduction of a special dye in an amount of 3-5% of the total volume of the finished composition. The coloring component gives the composition a color cast. With the right dosage, it does not impair the strength of the acrylic coating.
When mixing liquid acrylic, the introduction of a small amount of coloring pigment is allowed, which will give the coating of the bath the desired shade
Some experts recommend using a brush or roller to apply the composition, but most often the composition is simply poured onto the prepared surface. With a brush or trowel, the composition can only be pushed a little if it is necessary, for example, to completely fill the rounded top of the rim, but without auxiliary tools this does not work.
Before pouring liquid acrylic, the drain-overflow fittings must be dismantled. Part of the composition can pour out through the drain hole, this is completely normal. To collect excess acrylic, an unnecessary container is placed under the drain, for example, a cut-off plastic bottle or a half-liter glass jar.
Liquid acrylic is carefully poured onto the rim so that the stream evenly covers the surface of the bath. Do not move the container with the composition too quickly, but you should not forget about the life time of the composition
Start pouring acrylic from the top of the rim. When the stream reaches approximately the middle of the height of the bathtub, the container with liquid acrylic begins to smoothly move to the side until the entire upper part of the rim has been processed. The filling should be continued, but now the composition needs to be poured from the middle of the side to the bottom, thus making another circle around the perimeter of the bath.
After that, the bath is simply left to dry completely. Acrylic is evenly distributed on its surface and hardens, forming a durable surface. Now, from under the drain hole, you need to remove the container with excess acrylic and restore the drain-overflow piping. The influx is carefully cut with a knife.
The following article will familiarize you with methods to eliminate the typical problems of a cast-iron bathtub, which details all the characteristic damages and options for dealing with them.
Useful information on using PlastAll liquid acrylic is contained in this video:
Restoring the coating of a bathtub with epoxy enamel or liquid acrylic cannot be called simple or easy. To get a truly reliable result, you should carefully prepare the surface, and then precisely observe the technology of work and the conditions for their implementation.
Tell us about how you restored the enamel of your own bath. It is possible that you know an effective way to repair plumbing, not given in the article. Please write comments in the block below, share useful information and photos on the topic.