The situation when an electrical outlet fails is a common phenomenon that requires professional intervention by a master. But with a competent approach to solving the issue it is not at all necessary to resort to the help of specialists.
What nuances to consider when replacing an old connection point with a new one and how to change the outlet on our own will be considered in more detail.
The principle of replacing outlets
Usually those sockets that are most often used fail.
There may be many reasons for remaking the outlet. It:
- malfunctioning of the connection point, for example, when the device case is melted or the socket falls out of the wall;
- in order to improve electrical equipment;
- when changing designs from a banal aesthetic point of view.
In any case, replacing the outlet must be carried out in strict accordance with the rules of SNiP.
By replacing the outlet on your own, you can not only solve the problem as quickly as possible, but at the same time save the expense item
Regardless of the reason, when choosing a feeding device, it is important to consider a number of key factors:
- Correspondence of connection point parameters. The operational characteristics of the installed outlet must exactly meet the requirements for a particular room. So, to “power” kitchens and bathrooms, you need to use devices that have a high degree of protection of the case. Read more on how to choose such an outlet.
- Wiring Method. When installing outlets, both open and closed installation methods are used. For the embodiment of each of these options on the radio market, a wide assortment of sockets are built-in and overhead.
- Aesthetic qualities. A large selection of equipment, available in a wide color palette, allows you to organically fit the connection points in any stylistic interior solution.
When choosing and installing the outlet should focus on the type of network. So in a three-wire network, a conventional design can not do without a grounding contact.
But even if a two-wire network is laid in the house, electricians still recommend using sockets equipped with grounding terminals. The main argument of this decision is the fact that metal inserts will increase the strength not only of the connection point, but also of the plug itself, thereby extending the life of the product.
Step-by-step dismantling instruction
Working with electricity requires attention and caution. When dismantling and replacing the outlet, it is important to observe safety precautions. In this article, we will talk about replacing a wall outlet in a two-wire network. But if you need to replace the outlet with grounding, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with this material.
The first thing to do is to turn off the machine on the apartment panel, which feeds the line on which it is planned to carry out dismantling
In multi-storey buildings, shields with batch switches that cut off the supply of electricity to apartments are located on landings. It is necessary to determine the appropriate bag on the shield, and then transfer it to the upper “off” position.
If desired, only one room can be de-energized, in which a replacement will occur. But for this it is necessary to clearly know which of the machines is responsible for the corresponding line.
Since when you turn off the power supply for a while you will lose lighting, when replacing the outlet in a dark room or at dusk, you should worry about an alternative light source in advance. It is convenient to use a flashlight on batteries or a lamp connected to another powered line as a backlight.
To ensure that there is no mains voltage, use a single-pole low-voltage indicator, available as an indicator screwdriver
The wires at the connection point are separated into phase and zero threads. The indicator alternately touches the phase and zero wire of the outlet. If it is energized, the lamp on the screwdriver will light up. Without fear, you can replace the connection point, it is possible only on condition that the indicator does not react when the probe comes into contact with the bare ends.
Dismantling the outlet is performed in the following sequence:
- Remove the case of the old device. To unscrew the fixing central bolt located on the cover, you will need a Phillips or flat head screwdriver. Under the removed cover you will see a working mechanism.
- After making sure that there is no voltage in the network, proceed to the removal of the internal unit of the device. To do this, on the sides of the working board open special spacer tabs. In some models, the metal plate of the mechanism is fixed with two screws. They must be unscrewed.
- After removing the outlet from the socket, as far as the wires allow, unscrew the clamping screws that secure the power cables. In the block, conductive conductors are sequentially disconnected.
When dismantling the outlet for external wiring, keep in mind that there are devices with a mechanism that is separated from the socket and models, the mechanisms of which are combined with overhead socket boxes. Both are subject to analysis. Only in the first option, you must first remove the housing, and only then disconnect the working body, and in the models of the second type - only remove the housing.
If the screw fixing the cover cannot be unscrewed when dismantling the socket for concealed wiring, you can go to extreme measures with an accurate, but not very strong hammer blow to break it. The socket itself should be removed very carefully so as not to damage the cables leading to it.
To loosen the spacers, you must first unscrew the corresponding screws, and then pull the “core” out of the cell in the wall for the released wires
After dismantling the outlet, it is necessary to inspect the insulation of the wires. If the braid is melted or damaged, the wire should be cut to undamaged insulation. For the future, keep in mind that one of the main reasons for melting insulation is the incorrectly selected fuse or circuit breaker rating, which led to a malfunction of the protection device.
In the houses of the old building, there are often situations when, after dismantling the outlet, it is found that the socket is absent in the niche, and the “core” itself is attached directly to its walls. Do not install the outlet in this way: the mounting of the device will be unreliable. In this case, you will have to install a new plastic socket.
Setting a new connection point
Electrical outlets are similar in almost all models. And therefore, with the installation of a new connection point, problems should not arise.
Stages of work with an external device
The steps for installing overhead and hidden outlets are similar. However, it is better for a novice electrician to start with the overhead option:
Image Gallery
Photo from
Outdoor outlet for damp areas
Access to the front panel lock
Holding the clamps with a screwdriver
Analysis of the outlet into components
When disassembling the outlet, we remember the sequence of actions and the parties, according to which the parts were connected into an integral device. Assembly will need to be done in the reverse order.
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Photo from
Layout of the installation screws
Mounting the body of the patch outlet
Providing an Inlet
The corrugation of the power cable
Preparing the cable for connection
Connecting wires to the mechanism
Installing the mechanism in the seat
Fixing the body of the connected outlet
Selection of required materials
To replace the outlet, you must prepare:
- mounting knife for cutting the cable;
- Phillips or straight screwdriver
- pliers;
- heat shrink tubes;
- dielectric gloves;
- self-tapping screws.
It is also worthwhile to prepare a multimeter or voltage indicator in advance.
This device is an indispensable tool for electrical measurements, including the determination of direct and alternating voltage and current.
If a situation arises when the length of the wire is not enough, it can always be increased by attaching small segments.
But when building, you should consider:
- The extension of aluminum wires is carried out using terminal blocks.
- Copper wires are lengthened by twisting the pieces, followed by insulating or sealing the connection.
When building or replacing the wire, it is important to comply with the cable cross-sections. So, to connect the same washing machine, the power of which does not exceed 2 kW, a three-core copper cable of the VVGng brand with a cross section of 3X1.5 mm is enough2. An automatic machine with a rated current of 10A is sufficient at the input to protect such a cable.
When planning to use a socket to power the same iron or hair dryer, it is worth considering the option of replacing the wire with a three-core copper cable, but with a cross section of 3x2.5 mm2. But such a line will have to be replaced at the input with a 16A automatic machine.
Replacing or mounting a socket
First of all, they disassemble the case of the new device by removing the front panel from it. The task of the master is to fix the metal frame with the built-in working mechanism to the old place and connect the conductors with terminals.
When replacing an old-style outlet, be prepared for the fact that the size of the socket will be slightly larger than the diameter of the plastic cup used in modern devices.
Iron sockets of the old model “sin” by the fact that the sockets of the sockets do not catch well on their ribbed walls; therefore, the internal unit of the device often falls out of the socket
In the plastic samples of the new sample, the problem of weak fixing of the stops of the "core" of the device is absent. Therefore, when remaking the outlet, it is advisable to remove the old metal socket, and install a new plastic box in its place.
Plastic sockets designed for installation in drywall differ from analogues for installation in concrete and brick walls by the presence of two ears. With their help, the box is easy to fix on the back of the drywall sheet.
If desired, you can also upgrade the metal socket. This solution avoids the "dirty" work and the "wet" procedures associated with plaster. In addition, this method is good in that it allows the outlet to "dead" sit in its place. Improve the design using a standard socket for concrete.
The back wall and the front edge are cut off with a sharp knife at the socket, so as not to cut the thread for fixing the filling of the switch
The resulting blank in the form of a ring is inserted into the old metal socket, placing it so that the mounting of the outlet coincides with the holes where everything is screwed. For fastening plastic with metal, small “bugs” screws are used. They are screwed diagonally.
When replacing a metal podrozetnika with a plastic analogue, keep in mind that the "glass" should be completely buried in a niche. Deformation of the structure is unacceptable.
If the undergrowth does not fully enter the hole, the issue is solved in two ways:
- cut off the back of the socket, shortening it to the depth of the hole;
- expand and deepen the hole in the wall itself.
To securely fix the podrozetnik, use a solution of gypsum or alabaster. For this, the walls of the hole are niche moistened with water, and covered with a layer of gypsum solution. The same manipulations are performed with the outer walls of the plastic socket, after which they are inserted into the hole in the wall.
In size, the "glass" should freely enter the hole; if it "sits down" tightly and does not fit completely - the walls of the hole expand and deepen
To obtain a solution of the desired consistency of thick sour cream in a container of water, the powder is gradually diluted in small portions. To obtain a homogeneous mixture without lumps, gypsum is added to water, but not vice versa.
When working with alabaster, keep in mind that its hardening time varies within a few minutes. Therefore, the work should be done carefully, but quickly.
If desired, a cement-based mixture can also be used for fixation. But working with her will be a little more difficult.
The installed “glass” is cleaned of excess solution with a spatula, and then the horizontal and vertical position is leveled using the level
The socket should not protrude beyond the wall, otherwise the socket installed in it will stick out strongly, which will be extremely unsafe and also ugly. Two holes located on the outer edge of the "glass" should be set strictly horizontally.
A hole is made in the socket from the input side of the electrical wires.
Using a narrow spatula with a solution, the voids and the joints of the end part of the structure with the surface of the wall are smeared. After the solution hardens and gains the necessary strength, pass through the wires and proceed with the installation of the indoor unit. We also recommend that you read our other article, which describes in more detail the technology of installing the rosettes.
The connection of the mechanism to the veins
The outlet mechanism is connected to the cores by inserting the ends into special terminals. Since the wires of the “phase”, “zero” and “earth” inside the box must lie separately, but at the same time they have one common insulation in the cable, the first thing to do is to remove the flexible tube wrapping them.
To do this, remove the insulation from the cores of the lead wire and "bite off" the excess ends. But still experienced craftsmen recommend not to “bite off” the excess wire, but to leave a “margin” of 20 cm and hide it in the walls of the socket.
To create a perfect contact of the connected cable, each wire is freed from "personal" insulation, exposing the ends by 7-10 mm
Work should be done as carefully as possible so as not to damage the fragile cores. For lack of a special knife to remove insulation, you can use a sharpened kitchen or clerical knife. Some craftsmen recommend warming it up with a lighter before removing the braid.
In the regulatory document of the PUE it is clearly indicated that the identification of the core wires by digital designations or colors is carried out in accordance with the current GOST 50462-92.
So the color marking for wires up to 1000 V looks like this:
- "Phase" - a white braid (less often gray, red or black);
- zero working "N" - blue (less often blue) color of the braid;
- protective conductor "earth PE" - yellow-green insulation.
When connecting wires to a new point, as well as performing any electrical work, these requirements should be strictly observed.
To connect the indoor unit, the bare ends of the wires are inserted into the contacts: the neutral wire is connected to the left contact, phase to the right, and PE to the central
When working with old wiring in which only wires with a white or black braid are involved, it is advisable to check the supply wire before connecting it to the outlet. To prevent an error when connecting the contacts, the phase wire is marked with a marker.
In order to prevent distortion of the core, the screws are first baited, and then tightened one by one until they are firmly fixed. To give elasticity to the structure and at the same time prevent its loosening, a bolt is screwed in the center of the core.
The core with the connected contacts is installed in the same place, aligned horizontally, and then fixed with upper and lower screws
At the final stage, it remains only to install the panel. The cover is fixed with a central bolt, being careful not to overtighten the mount so as not to “tear” the hole and not damage the fragile material of the protective cover.
To check the reliability of fixing the outlet, the plug of one of the electrical appliances is inserted into it. If the socket in the box is loose, you will have to remove the decorative panel again, and tighten the bolts of the spacers a little harder.
By reinstalling the cover, you can connect power to the shield. After the connection is completed, the correct connections in the installed outlet are checked by the indicator.
Also on our website there are several articles that detail the process of repairing and connecting various types of outlets:
- How to transfer the outlet: instructions for moving the outlet to another location
- Common Outlet Malfunctions: How to Fix an Outlet Do It Yourself
- How to make two from one outlet and how to properly conduct an outlet from an outlet
- How to connect a double outlet: installing a double outlet in one socket
A video with a visual demonstration and a detailed explanation of how to properly remodel the outlet:
Guide on how to change the outlet:
Even an aspiring master can change the outlet independently. The main thing is to observe safety precautions and strictly adhere to the above actions.
If you had to change or remodel the outlet yourself, please share your experience with our readers, tell us about the nuances that you need to know for those who are faced with such work for the first time. Write comments, ask questions about the topic of the article in the block below.